Under Alessandro Michele’s vision, Valentino enters a new era of magical and maximalist designs.
By The Time Place Magazine
The only constant thing in life is change. The same holds true for the fashion world where luxury house Valentino recently embarked on a new chapter, bidding farewell to its esteemed creative director, Pierpaolo Piccioli, whose tenure left a lasting mark on the brand’s identity. Taking over is none other than Alessandro Michele, the visionary known for his transformative work at Gucci. Michele’s highly anticipated debut for Valentino came with the Spring/Summer 2025 collection, aptly named Pavillon des Folies—a title that hints at whimsical elegance and daring creativity, setting the tone for a fresh beginning for the Maison.
The eclectic designer, renowned for his larger-than-life creations and maximalist, playful kitsch wardrobes, effortlessly transported a vibrant fusion of patterns, materials, and an explosion of colours onto the runway. With Pavillon des Folies, Michele introduces a new dimension to Valentino’s aesthetic, infusing it with a whimsical edge that echoes the essence of folies—a French term evoking playfulness or madness. As expected, his debut signals a departure from the brand’s previous elegance, embracing a bold, joyful spirit that hints at both fantasy and extravagance, setting the stage for a daring new era.
From 30s-inspired gowns to crochet dresses paired with jeans, Pavillon des Folies delivers a flamboyant and rebellious lineup that swings between the futuristic and the nostalgic. Yet, every piece carries Michele’s unmistakable DNA—personal, joyful, and unapologetically bold. True to his signature style, the collection brims with creative daring, merging eclectic influences with playful extravagance. There’s also a distinct bohemian flair, paying homage to Valentino’s 60s & 70s ethos, seamlessly woven into the narrative to honour the brand’s storied past while setting the stage for a bold new chapter.
Set in a basement transformed into a fashion playground, the Spring/Summer 2025 runway featured a laid-back yet thoughtfully curated décor. Loveseats, chairs, and giant bird cages—draped in dust covers—were scattered across the space, all resting atop cracked mirror flooring. The setting struck a delicate balance between nonchalance and intention, amplifying the whimsical spirit of Pavillon des Folies and creating an atmosphere where fantasy and reality seamlessly intertwined.
Besides his extravagant imagination, Michele is also blessed with strong tailoring and layering styling panache which are all displayed in this collection. For instance, among the contemporary designs, a tiered ruffled blue dress emerges with voluminous sleeves and a bold white ruff collar, evoking a touch of Elizabethan drama and amplifying the designer’s theatrical nature. The look is paired with a chartreuse belt that cinches the waist, adding a striking contrast that enhances the silhouette, while red lace tights paired with pointed black heels with red accents inject a daring flair.
From ruffles and feathers to tassels, models strutted down the runway flaunting an array of bizarre patterns, including ornate embroidered jackets, playful polka dots, and vibrant florals. Accessories also played a vital role in amplifying the collection’s charm and flamboyance, such as netted silk turbans, nose and lip jewellery, and long, cascading silver embellishments attached to crocheted black beanies, further elevating the creative potential of fashion. These details showcased a genius display, creating a captivating blend of tradition and modernity that perfectly captured the spirit of Pavillon des Folies.
Meanwhile, Michele injects a playful twist into the footwear and handbags. Shoes featured delicate bows and stylish slingback heels, while the men’s collection showcased ballet flats paired with quirky crochet socks. Shoulder bags were often clutched by their chains, with some models even carrying two at once. Among the highlights was a charming cowboy saddle bag embellished with tassels. The delightful kitty clutches were hand-painted to resemble porcelain figures, each adorned with beautiful glimmering eyes.
“When I say beauty, I am clearly not referring to its universalistic, dogmatic, and normative mythologisation. I rather allude to that unique capability to deeply feel and connect with something that unveils and reveals a new universe of meaning,” conveyed Alessandro Michele, in a poetic way to unveil his new masterpieces.
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