Valentino unveils a liberated and romantic menswear collection in lovely shades of blue
By The Time Place Magazine
Valentino once again shakes up gender norms in its stunning Menswear Fall/Winter 2024-25 collection, aptly named ‘Le Ciel,’ or the sky. Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli explores the profound meaning of being a man in today’s world, reassessing and delving deeper into the expressive power of pure colour as a dynamic tool for communicating ideas and ideals—highlighted by the beloved colour blue.
In this collection, liberated from societal conventions and emancipated from expectations, blue, traditionally an archetypal marker of masculinity, undergoes a transformative reassessment. But the Maison not only redefines the hue of light blue but also challenges the very essence of formalwear. Classicism remains intact but takes on a contemporary perspective, ushering in a new era. Menswear codes undergo a profound transformation this season, with silhouettes, volumes, and fabrics breaking free from traditional constraints. The ensembles are meticulously layered, featuring oversized coats, vests, and jackets, complemented by vibrant turtlenecks that add an unexpected finishing touch. Throughout, tailoring takes a contemporary turn, seamlessly merging with Couture codes to encapsulate a fresh vision of modern men—soft, intuitive, and romantic.
This season, the art of layering takes centre stage, weaving material and chromatic complexities that are both eye-catching and tantaliSing to decipher. Coats grace the entire runway, introducing novel silhouettes and constructions showcased on a variety of woollen base fabrics. Sporty vests emerge as the next layer, accompanied by silky turtlenecks—consistently woven throughout—in vibrant hues peeking out from underneath, infusing subtle hints of colour, and elongating the overall forms. Animated by generously sized pockets, they playfully peek from under outerwear, adding dynamic elements to the ensemble.
The runway breathes new life into men’s formalwear where the classic codes have been revamped. Vibrant jackets in varied woollen fabrics, from sky blue to lime yellow, and inventive pants combinations take the spotlight. This season’s oversized yet structured fit introduces a relaxed and inviting language. Couture touches infuse tailoring with a refreshing lightness, redefining traditional elements of the male wardrobe.
As men are now more in touch with their feelings and not afraid to express them, “Le Ciel” draws inspiration from the Renaissance and the Maison’s romantic aesthetic and places a spotlight on intricate embroideries. Craftsmanship takes centre stage, featuring detailed embroideries influenced by the architectural realm of stucco and the technique known as Valentino Altorilievo (High Relief), alongside floral motifs and all-over sequin designs.
The Maison skilfully plays with colour, traversing the spectrum and imbuing each shade with meaning. A pristine white and light-coloured segment precedes a grey section accentuated by vibrant inserts. Shades like bright lilac, brilliant green, peach fluo, and cherry red, subtly peek beneath layers of natural-coloured outerwear or take centre stage on matching blazers and pants. Anchored by classic formalwear codes in white, ivory, olive, grey, and black, the collection introduces moments of light blue, popping into garment details or enveloping entire outfits.
The new collection also boasts an assortment of Valentino Garavani accessories, which perfectly complements modern formalwear with its relaxed silhouettes and iconic Maison codes. The Valentino Garavani VLogo Moon bag, with its distinctive shape and statement VLogo metal chain, exudes a self-explanatory and powerful personality. First unveiled during the Valentino L’École Spring/Summer 2024 collection, this enchanting Maison silhouette is meticulously crafted from soft grained leather.
Elsewhere, Valentino Garavani GentleGlam introduces a range of lace-ups, loafers, and boots adorned with iconic Maison elements, offering both emblematic and distinctive styles. The new designs, enhanced with stud details and refined rivets, bring a daring and updated appeal to the collection. The Valentino Garavani runboot shoes, on the other hand, showcase hybrid inspirations, merging styles for the season. Furthermore, the reimagined casual-chic wallabee, recognised for its stitched raised edge, is presented in various material variations and colours, emphasising the diverse offering.
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